ETHNIC INDIAN WEDDING

Matches might be predestined in heaven, but they are celibrated as marriages on earth. And what to talk when it is India. A country with the most vibrant cultural heritage on earth.

Here is an account of two weddings that were being celebrated in the most ethnic way at Berhampur. The first couple are Ram Mohan weds Soundarya; and the second couple are Viswa Mohan weds Arati Rani. The bride grooms Ram and Viswa are the two charming cousin brothers who hail from the renowned Pandiya Subudhi ’s family of Berhampur, Orissa of India. This family represent the face of the Telugu business community called Kumuti’s. This clan able to make a strong foothold on this corner of the earth since more than two centuries. While this community is reknowned for their spirit of enterprising, the new breed of generation are successful corporate executives in MNC’s exploring new horizones world wide.

These two weddings were celebrated while keeping alive the age old sampradayam (customs) over a period of four to five days in the following sequence.

PASUPU DANCHI (Haladi Kuta) :

On 22nd November 2010 the ladies of the groom’s family conducted the Pasupu Danchi. To start any auspicious work first turmeric is worshiped and than grinded, as this herb represents the auspicious colour of yellow for prosperity and well-being. This turmeric powder was only used afterwards for each and every activities pertaining to the marriage, be its application on the wedding invitation cards, puja of family deity or cooking any delicacies for the feast.

The weddings were scheduled to be held on 19th December . By 12th December a week ahead of the big day, the near and dear relatives started arriving at the grooms home. Conducting a marriage function is in fact a Herculean task. Managing the affair of being an able host was carried on successfully by meticulous planning and its execution.

AMORU VARAM :

A special kind of Bratam called Amoru Varam is conducted to appease Ammavaru or Thakurani, the deity of Berhampur city by every parents on their sons marriage. On 14th December Amoru Varam was conducted with ardent devotion. 14th December of the year 2010 happened to be a Tuesday, a day which is dear to Goddess Thakurani. The way this event was conducted it looked as if a mini Amoru Sambaram (Thakurani Jatra) which is conducted at Berhampur every alternative years for the past one century.

[The two mothers of the grooms while carrying Ghatams on their head]

The basic idea is to carry a Ghatam (a pot) by each participants from the grooms home to the Amoru Temple. Elaborate preparations were made since early morning by the ladies of the family to prepare for this big event.

In total there were 22 participants. All these ladies were the near and dear family members of the groom. These ladies had to observe a strict fasting since morning till the Bratam is over somewhere at evening. All the participants were given a new Saree by the grooms father to be worn for this event.

A Ghatam is made out of a pot. Each of these pots were beautifully decorated by applying turmeric and kukum on the outer surface and filled with rice (arua chawal), one Harada fruite, one coin, a drop of Panchamruta and a miniature hand-crafted umbrella. Finaly each of these Ghatam were decorated with hibiscus flowers (Mandar fulla) on its top.

The person while carring a Ghatam on his\her head is considered to be the Maa Thakurani herself. An unusual anecdote happened even before the procession started from the grooms residence. All the ladies were standing on the street holding the Ghatams on their heads, at this nick of the moment Smt.P.Devi-garu a hexa-generian lady arrived from Hyderabad. Out of dhwani of the Sankham, ringing of the bells she was in a state of ecstacy. As a result of her devotion she went ahead and touched and washed the feets of one of the ladies holding Ghatam. But much later she realised that she had washed the feet of her daughter-in-law Mrs.K.Sujata. Where as in Hindu sampradayam the father-in-law or the mother-in-law should never touch the feet of their son-in-law or daughter-in-law.

[Kasturi Kalap]

It was a cool morning. With the dhwani of Sankham the whole environment reveberated. There on the street one could hear the soothing sound of ghungroos as “chum chum” wore by Kali Vesa. The musicians gathered a few scrap papers and card-board boxes from the street and torched it to warm-up the Dhol and Ghumra bands. With the beats of the Ghumra the Thakurani Vesa and her compatriate Kali Vesa started swinging their bodies. On entire way from home to the temples admeasuring all most two kilometers sarees were laid as a substitute for the red- carpet for the Amoru to walk with dignity. At the forefront both fathers of two grooms walked while sprinkling holy water called Kasturi Kalap. This substance was made by adding Kasturi or musk (an extract of a deer) to water. Kalap or sprinkling of the holy water was done with the help of a betel leaf (pan patra). They were followed by six persons carrying large Deepum’s. These large lamps were handmade at home with the raw atta or wheat-flour and placed in plates. Then followed four kids carrying flowers. Flnally there were 22 ladies who were carrying the Ghatalu.

All the way from Big Bazar to the temples the Thakurani Vesa and the Kali Vesa marched ahead while dancing graciously as if she is the princess of this Silk City. However the irony was that the streets of Old Berhampur City are too narrow and crowded. But than these two Vesas able to halt the traffic for a while at every juncture by attracting the attention of every commuter. The third costume was of Kali Prava Vesa. The dance of this Vesa was most stunning. The Thakurani and Kali Vesas were dancing diligently while rotating one or the other way as their costumes were larger than life. Whereas the dance of Kaliprava Vesa was outstanding. Its dance form could be associated with the famous Danda Nacha of Orissa. As the costume of this Vesa was only a facial mask, it able to do all short of acrobat. When the procession reached Kaspa Street this dancer did a unique stunt by opening the cap of a soft-drink bottle with his teeth while dancing when the bottle was placed on the ground. And he un-caped the bottle without even touching the bottle. Afterward he lifted the bottle with his mouth and drunk the entire bottle at one go.

In total there were 22 women participents who carried Ghatalu. Out of these six pots were yeiya-kallu Ghatams, which literally means a pot with thousand eyes. These six earthen pots had a few holes in its body and they carried a oil lamp called Deepum inside it. All the way a red Chaddar (cloth) was held on top of these Ghatalu by four persons on each corner and one lifted it at the centre with a tall supporting bamboo.

On reaching the Thakurani Temple a Puja was conducted while offering two crates beutifully decorated with coconut, bananas, flowers, Gajamua and ofcourse a Saree. The Gajamuan is a Oriya sweetdish made out of puffed-rice(lia). It stands tall in the thali packed neatly in a transparent polythene by giving a sense of greed to any on-looker. On complition of Puja water is given on the roots of the big Neem tree which stands tall inside the temple complex.

From here the procession went to Nala Amoru or Kali Mandir and finaly to Kuthari Amoru. The same set of rituals were followed even at these two temples.

LAGHNAM PATRIKUM

On 18th December just a day before the wedding, early in the morning all the elderly male memberes of the groom’s family went to deliver Lagan Patrikum of Viswa Mohan to the home of Arati Rani at Aska Road. Laghnam Patrika is an invitation for the marriage.

In ancient times even when paper was not yet invented, Hindu texts were written on palm leafs with the help of a sharp needle. This Lagan Patrika was as well writen with a ink pen on a dry palm leaf. It was sanctified by applying turmeric and Kumkum and rolled in a silk cloth.

As the parents reached the bride’s home at Aska Road they were greeted by blowing of Sankhum and ullu ullu. Ullu ullu is done by mouth while tantalising the tongue in and out. its a tradition which is done by the women folk particularly in Orissa. The dhwani (vibration) of ullu ullu purifies the surrounding of the place where any holy work is being conducted. At this juncture one would witness the collage of two communities be it Telugu representing Viswa while Oriya representing Arati.

PITRUPURUSHA

The ladies of the family got together to clean-up the mungdal and biridal. These pulses are used to make food to be offered to the ancesters of the family. When food was cooked the offering was made on the terrace of the groom’s house by placing on a thali. A metal bell was ringed to get the attention of the crows. Father of Viswa Mohan guarded till a crow touched the offering.

PELI KODUKU

In the noon hours both the youngmen Ram and Viswa are made Pelikodukulu means dulheraja or bridegroom. The family barber was asked to attend both youngmen at home. These two yubraj are being shaved cleanly and their hair and moustache as well given a cut. Nails on their foot and hands were trimmed. Sriwali and Srilaksmi the sisters of Ram and Viswa collected hair with the pallu of their sarees when the barber was cutting their hair. Later on they bargained for a monetary tips called katnum.

[The groom being applied turmeric by the sister]

Basically making a Peli Koduku is a ladies affair. When the trimming of hair was over, the two youngmen were applied turmeric by their mothers and and other relatives. At this moment Odina or sister-in-law of Ram did a few pranks by applying some blue color all over the face of both the grooms. It was ridiculous to find how these two high flying technocrates are being made scpe-goats by a few ladies. While Ram Mohan works with Infosys in US, the other Viswa works with HP at Bangalore.

Then they were sent to take a bath with warm water. On return they wore new set of cloths and Mangala Arati was led by Sriwali, Ram’s sister.

Each of the activities were conducted as per the pre-scheduled muhurtam.

SATAMANAM :

[The making of a Pusti, the Mangalsutra]

On return from the bride’s home fathers of both the grooms went to the goldsmith at Kaspa Street to give gold to make the Pusti (Mangal Sutra). This event was carried with equal fervent. Sankhum was blown and the family priest accompanied the parents of the grooms. The goldsmith fired the burner and melted the gold and given an elementary shape by applying a hammer.

WEDDING DAY :

''Suklam vara Bishnum shashi varnam chaturbhujam

                          Prasana vadanam dhyae sarba karye su-sarvada”

With the tune of this Bishnu Sloka by Jyoti Band the Barajatri procession moved ahead. It’s a band with the reputation of 75 years track record, which played only classical music while avoiding the usual vulgar songs that are being played in any other wedding processions. They were followed by a group of musicians playing Karnatic music. Their music was soothing as they were playing nada-swaram or the Sehnai along with the vadyam (dhol) and harmonium. But then there music was overpowered by the loud-speakers of the Jyoti Band.

It was a unique kind of procession, in the sense there was no fire-works and no dance on the street. The traffic of this city could only be disciplined if every father take this short of initiative on his son’s marriage. Any how the procession able to reach swiftly Sri Vasavi Kanyaka Parmeswari Temple at Kaspa Street.

At the entrance of this temple the groom as well the bride sides met each other. They greeted each other by garlanding karpurum-mala and ekilu-perulu. Sankhum was blown. Ullu ullu was done by the ladies. Ullu ullu is done by mouth while tantalising the tongue in and out. The dhwani (vibration) of ullu ullu and Sankhum purifies the surrounding of the place where any holy work is being conducted. At this juncture one would witness the collage of two communities, be it Telugu representing Viswa while Oriya representing Arati. The two pair of couple went inside the temple to take the blessings of the Godess Parmeswari.

From here they went to the nearby Beda Temple. The height of the entrance of this temple is too short. It could be hardly 5 feet. It compels every person while entering this temple premises to lean his head down. In earlier times Indian temples were built in such a way, so that while entering the precincts of the lord everyone should surrender his ego and pride while leaning the head. There is a massive banyan tree inside the premises of this temple which was offered puja by both the mothers of the grooms. They did a set ritual by tying a sacred white-thread around this tree, while both the couples revolved around it in pairs.

Then procession headed towards Amoru Kowili or Thakurani Mandir. The same set of rituals were followed over here. There rice, lia (puffed rice), supari and haldi was offered in hand-stitched leafs called Khallis. From here the procession able to make a quick detour for Sri Gudisa Venkata Ramamurty Kalyan Vedika situated at Prem Nagar as the approaching road is wider.

On reaching this spacious Kalyana Mandapam found the entrance gate was closed. It was Sriwalli and Srilaksmhi, the sisters of these two grooms who shut the doors. They did not allow their brothers to enter the premises. They asked their would be bhabis or sister-in-laws to take the names of their brother’s. By any given Indian custom a wife should never recite the name of her husband. The ragging lasted for a while by bringing laughter on the face of every onlooker. They demanded for Katnam or monetary tips to make way for the venue. As a consequence of which the grooms and the accompanied guests were stranded on the hot sun, until both the sisters compromised for an undisclosed sum. On entering this complex cool Badamgir was served to relish the thirst.

During the reception afternoon lunch was served. There was veg-pulao with salad, bread-rolls with tomato sauce, mushroom-masala with rumali-roti. And for the South-Indian taste-buds there was rice, Sambar, curd, baigan-masala, allu-puttal curry, papad, tomato-pickle. And finally there was a special mouth-watering Telugu sweet desert called Chekar-pongal. One would astonish to find all the children cornered at only one counter. Obviously it was where two flavours of ice-crème were being served along with the soft drinks.

The Marriage

It was a cool evening, but the ambiance inside Vysyaraju Complex was warm. One would find the children running and jumping with a fun and frolic mood. While the male guests were busy with the business talks, their better-half were engaged in the usual domestic gup-sup. All those were dressed in Berhampur Pattu (silk) sarees, while a few others preferred Kanjivaram. One could find a few wearing Vadanum. Its a gold plated waist-belt which is being wore by the wealthy women of this region. Can you estimate how much each of these ornaments would value, especially while the bullion index is touching new-heights with the close of every session. These ladies have even updated them self with time by carrying cell-phones.

The marriage ceremony was conducted observing a set of rituals in the following order. First both the sides did churning of rice together which is called Kodnalu. Afterwards the Pitrupursa (ancesters) were invited which is called as Pethalu. It followed by Ganesh Puja and Punyabachanam. Nabagraha Puja was conducted to appease the nine planets of our solar system to bring peace, harmoney and prosperity in the life’s of newly wedded couples.

In Hindu Sastras (scriptures) a daughter is considered as Goddess Lakshmi and as a consequence of which the son-in-law is considered to be the Lord Vishnu. So before the marriage Kanya Danam was being conducted. Here the parents of the bride offered their daughter to the groom. The bride’s parents washed the legs of their son-in-law, as he is vara-Vishnum. While doing this ritual the mother of Arati Rani cried insistently for a long time. After all she had reared her daughter entire life, where as now going to give away her prize possession. Soon after Kanya Danam a chhadar or cloth was placed in between the groom and the bride, so as they should not see each other. The cloth was held by two persons on either end till the Sumuhurtum. At the nick of the moment called Sumuhurtam the cloth was removed and the groom placed jagery (gud) and til (rasi) seeds on the forehead of the bride. This ritual is most important, which need to be conducted on the auspicious moment as pre-determined by the Pandits. This followed by Satmanam Dharana. It is tying of Mangal Sutra by the groom on the neck of the bride.

In Hindu religion Agni or fire is considered to be one of the pancha-tatwa or five elements that constitute of universe. Hence during the course of a marriage Agni need to be present as a Sakshi or evidence. Since the place where the marriage conducted was neatly carpeted so making a Homa or Dhuni was not feasible so fire was ignited with wood on a Chadua or large bell-metal container. And the duo revolved around the fire called Agni Pradarsanam.

All the while fourteen Pandits (priests) did Bramhana Asirbachanam by reciting Sanskrit slokas (hymns) in a chorus while seating on a podium next to the main platform. In Dakshina each of these fourteen Bramhans were given a Rs.100 /- currency note, a banana and two pan patra (betel leafs) placed in a copper glass.

[TALAMBRALU while the groom pouring rice on the head of the bride]

It was followed by Talambralu. It is when the groom and the bride pour rice (in raw form) on the head of each other. It is done so to undertake the responsibility of each other for a life time. From here the couples went to the terrace to see the Arundhati star in the night sky. And where as the author of this article escaped to take the dinner.

kiranbima@gmail.com

E. KIRAN MOHAN
C\o. Dr.E.R.Rao (MD)
Main Road, Barpali-768029
Dist-Bargarh, Orissa, India
Ph- 91-99-371-20565 (Cell),
91-6646-256565 (Off),
91-6646-256153 (Home).

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